Posted in Pattern Drafting

Coming to terms with change: New Sloper!

In my last post (what was that? A few hours ago?) I mentioned that some of the measurements for my Fancy Pants were too snug for me as they were taken last year. So I decided it was high time to re-draw my bodice sloper based on a more up-to-date “me”. Instead of going with my sewing school’s regular method of sloper drafting, I attempted to use the drafting method of the Bunka Fashion College. This is a Japanese sewing school and they have an English translation of their entire series of pattern drafting books. Yay! But first, the measurements:

Measurements for a ‘relaxed’ fit. So that I have room for ‘growing’. You know what I mean. Measurement guide from Dorothy Moore’s Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking, published by Western Publishing Company Inc, New York, 1971.

The Bunka sloper is interesting because it calculates the dimensions of the bodice sloper based on functions/formulae  involving the bust and centre back measurements. It’s too complicated to explain here, and I had quite a headache after all the drafting. I should look out for some kind of software/computer programme that can do this for me.

Anyway, after all the math, we should end up with a back bodice with a shoulder dart and a front bodice with a bust dart, all ready for dart manipulation.

Looks like a regular sloper, but trust me, my brain was in knots.
Looks like a regular sloper, but trust me, my brain was in knots.
Bunka-style sleeve sloper. A whole new ball game for me.
Bunka-style sleeve sloper. A whole new ball game for me.

The 1/4 scale bodice draft was so much work, and I have yet to draw a full scale bodice sloper which I can actually use to draft usable sewing patterns. But I’m feeling really motivated because now I have the means to attempt the glorious Japanese patterns in my copies of Lady Boutique magazine. All of which make use of the funky Bunka-style sloper with the shoulder and bust dart. A rainbow at the end of the storm, really.

Lady Boutique Magazine. Contains scaled down dress  patterns instructions for most of the garments in every issue and also graded full-size patterns for select styles.
Lady Boutique Magazine. Contains scaled down dress patterns and instructions for most of the garments in every issue and also graded full-size patterns for select styles.
2014-09-12 12.29.08
Look at all the pretty dresses. As you can see I’ve bookmarked the yellow one.
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